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Pappas Bros. Steakhouse

The steak war rages in Dallas. Who'll win is anybody's guess? The real winners appear to be steak lovers, since at this rate, they'll soon be big bucks beef houses on every corner in The Metroplex. How much steak can we eat? Operators are betting a lot. And, they're fighting the good fight to lure customers.

One of the latest combatants has quietly established its beachhead at Northwest Highway and I-35 the new restaurant row, thanks to Houston's venerable Pappas Family. But the new steakhouse is a departure from the casual dining philosophy of the sibling barbecue, Mexican and seafood restaurants.

The family takes a very upscale approach here and creates a supremely satisfying dining experience. If you're looking for great food, great service and tasteful, comfortable surroundings, this is your place. No expense has been spared to orchestrate their vision of fine dining.

The dining room has a 1940's supper club feel--rich, with dark paneling, and soft lighting, acoustics that allow intimate conversation and great music from Sinatra, Bennett and Cole. The wine cellar dining room offers a glimpse of the 4 million-dollar Pappas Bros. wine collection. The cigar lounge, with its near flawless air filtration system, appeals to power diners with its leather furnishings, stone fireplace and rustic western touches. For the single party, not wishing to dine at a table alone, there's a very uptown dining counter. There's more: booths with local phones and Internet connection; a private jet to pick up or drop off that crucial client; and a heli-pad for those who commute over rooftops.

You'll feel coddled by the kid-glove service and hospitality at Pappas Bros.Steakhouse. The wait-staff is knowledgeable, friendly and efficient. There's a wine steward for every section of the restaurant to guide you through the 1500 bottle list, which also features inspired choices by the glass, like Caymus Conundrum. These are pro-fessionals and all the training pays off.

The entire experience comes together, of course, because the food is sublimely simple and superb. Starters delight: crabcakes, fried oysters, bacon wrapped scallops or Beluga Caviar to name a few; a perfect Caesar Salad; Turtle Gumbo or soup of the day.

The prime beef is aged in-house. The meat is on display as you enter and is a sight to behold. Pick your favorite cut-filet, strip, ribeye, Porterhouse, lamb chops or veal. It will arrive cooked to perfection from the high-temperature broiler. A regular special is the 22-ounce bone-in Ribeye, tender and delicious with outstanding skillet potatoes. If steak's not on your menu, Pappas Bros. offers broiled salmon, a sweet and juicy Australian rock lobster tail and live Maine Lobster.

You must save room for dessert. All are made in house. The pastry chef was training to be a doctor when his dessert calling came (the medical profession's loss, the culinary world's gain). I only hope you have a large party so you can try several selections. We swooned over gooey pecan cake and Key Lime Pie.

The selection of single malt Scotches, after dinner spirits and ports is ample and sure to please any palate.

The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday for dinner. Reservations are accepted at 214-366-2000. Pappas Bros. is located at 10477 Lombardy Lane, just off Northwest Highway at Interstate 35.