Fort Worth Star Telegram

Here’s the Beef
Chicago connections to fill the bill by June Naylor Rodriguez

Cuisine: Prime Beef

The Draw: Forget what you know of the Houston-based Pappas restaurants, like Pappadeaux. There’s nothing casual or kitschy about this sophisticated temple of meat. It opened in late September and has been packing the place with well-heeled diners who get a confirmation number when they make reservations (which are a must). It’s a perfect option for diners who’ve done Del Frisco to death.

The Dishes: Starters include shrimp remoulade and crabcakes, but diners often begin with a side dish of onions rings, which are as big as bagels and arrive stacked in a tower. For heart-clogging delirium, have the bacon wrapped scallops ($8.75), which come atop a thick, buttered toasted baguette slice. Only somewhat lighter, but just as flavorful, is the beefsteak tomato ($6.25), sliced inch-thick and dressed with onion, vinaigrette and Roquefort crumbles.

Entrees include enormous lobster tails, veal and lamb chops, but who can skip the phenomenal beef that you see in the glass case near the entrance? It’s shipped directly from Chicago packing houses, and Pappas dry-ages its own steaks in house. The 12-ounce filet mignon ($28.95), dressed in a rich aromatic port sauce with sautéed fresh mushroom slices, is nearly three inches thick and pure gastronomic genius. The best selling 16-ounce rib-eye ($23.50), is amazing tender. As at all beef mansions, everything is a la carte. That’s fine because sides dishes, such as the Parmesan-crusted creamed spinach ($5.95) and potatoes au gratin ($5.25) are worth every fattening penny.

The Wines: Don’t freak at the wine list, a 48-page tome listing 1,500 wines. The bestsellers are $100-$120, but you can enjoy the Guenoc Valley Petite Syrah, a perfectly delightful smooth red with a deep bouquet that costs a thrifty $35.

The Ambience: The décor reeks of money, with what deep, polished woods, giant pillars, marble flooring and huge, deco-style light fixtures. Low lighting provides romance, and crisp table linens and tastefully old photos on the wall lend warmth. There’s a giant stone fireplace in the more intimate lodge-like dining room where smokers sit.

The Crowd: Dates and business folks abound. There’s plenty of black garb, sportcoats and golf shirts, lots of expensive jewelry. Coat and tie are preferred but not required.

The Service: Upon being greeted at the door by a small army of smartly groomed women in stylish back or gray suits, it becomes clear why there’s such pitiful service at other places. The good ones are here.

The Prices: Two appetizers, two steaks, two vegetables and a bottle of wine came to $120.14 before tip.

The Details: Open 5-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. The bar opens at 4 p.m. Major credit cards; smoking section; wheelchair accessible.