We were already familiar with the Pappas Bros. Steakhouse from its Houston location, but were interested to see how things stacked up in Dallas. Would the au gratin potatoes be as meltingly decadent? The filet as silky? The service as impeccable? Would the wine list offer the same hidden treasures?

"Yes" is the answer - and on all fronts, we're happy to report.

The best steaks in Houston may well be the best in Dallas, too - with or without the I-45 rivalry. The Dallas room seems slightly sunnier for some reason, but the same plush red leather booths beckon us to sink in for a real Texas beef feast.

The staff is warm and welcoming, with just enough formality to match the high standards of the place. As per usual at Pappas Bros, a martini seemed de rigueur. Cold, clean and pristine, with three olives, please.

Then it was on to the crisp iceberg wedge salad loaded with blue cheese, scallions and a generous sprinkling of crisp bacon. And speaking of bacon, the bacon-wrapped scallops starter is always a treat, especially when paired with a bottle of bubbly!

As for the filet, it was just buttery, silky, delicious. Dry-aged prime beef (our personal preference), and seasoned just right with kosher salt, cracked black pepper and butter. On a non-beef entrée note, we think the Pappas Bros. salmon is about as good as fish gets in a steakhouse - not to mention a little thank you to our collective arteries for hanging in there so far.

As mentioned, the au gratin potatoes are quite simply the best around. All gooey decadence and worth every bite. Hey, if you're going to do it, they may as well be this good! Balance the scales with roasted mushrooms and a plate of fresh asparagus if you must.

The wine list is a monster, heavy on the Cabernet and Bordeaux. Mostly pricey, but with a few values to be found if you're willing to thumb through the whole thing page by page. Honestly, we think this type of wine list is great for splurging, so order and enjoy your bottle of Caymus or Cain Five with confidence.

We understand that there are desserts to be had, but frankly have just never had the strength to explore them. Maybe the next time - and there will certainly be a next time. And the next. And the next.

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